As I mentioned a while ago on another thread, here are some guidelines for submitting a request for a valuation. There is no "form" for you to fill in, the main points are covered on this website under "Insurance", where you will find details on how to go about it. However, there are one or two amendments to those notes as follows:

Each application MUST be made in WRITING & sent by POST (no faxes or emails I'm afraid, although you can send supplementary info that way) & MUST include all the following:

1) Your FULL name (inc. christian name), address, phone number & MEMBERSHIP NUMBER (no number, no valuation!) This is a facility for MEMBERS - not just a requirement of the insurance - this MAY become modified with a qualifying period!

2) FULL description of vehicle listing all major components (body, chassis, engine, trans, rear axle, front axle, steering, brakes, wheels/tyres, interior, accessories). Don't just say you've got them! I want to know what they are, any mods etc. & this includes make, model, YEAR (even I don't know every car!)& VITALLY, REG NO.(or chassis no.). You can go into as much detail as you like, but try & keep it to a couple of pages and PLEASE, make it legible (typed is good).

3) Photos; MINIMUM of 4 clear, full shots showing ALL sides (3/4 views of opposite corners will cover exterior + 1 interior & 1 engine). 1 will be retained by me, the rest will be returned (hence the envelope!) so you can send as many as you like.

4) SAE (this means STAMPED & ADDRESSED envelope) of at least A5 size( 9" x 6"). If you want me to send a copy of valuation direct to Ian Fray, enclose ANOTHER envelope addressed to them AS WELL. Can't stress this enough, you MUST enclose at least one envelope so I can return a copy of the valuation to you, plus any other documents/photos etc.

Whilst on the subject of envelopes, some of you don't put enough postage on the envelope when you send me this stuff (in some cases none at all!). This results in the Post Office sending me a card advising that there is "insufficient postage" & either asking for me to pay it or reject it - I REJECT THEM!!! So, this means your application doesn't get to me, it may get returned to you eventually! I recommend that everyone puts a RETURN ADDRESS on the OUTSIDE of the envelope, just in case.

5) Re- valuations are due every TWO years or sooner if requested by Ian Fray. If you are re-applying, PLEASE enclose the previous valuation or advise the EXACT DATE of it, so I can update my records. It's very frustrating typing all the details of a vehicle in my database, only to find that the system pings to say that this entry already exists, also a waste of my time! If nothing has changed materially, you can just send a letter to that effect, without having to enclose photos or spec sheet, but advising old date. This also applies if you have just bought a car which was/is on the scheme with it's previous owner (sellers, PLEASE advise new owners if this is the case!)

Finally, the elegibility (or otherwise) of vehicles.

Basically, RODS & CUSTOMS, built in the spirit of the NSRA. Broadly speaking, Rods are anything pre-49, Customs are post-49 to (at present)1973. Post-49 vehicles MUST be RADICALLY MODIFIED (so no stockers!) & the wilder the better! Post-73 cars may be considered, but they must also be RADICAL/HISTORICAL.

At the moment, we do NOT accept rear-engined vehicles such as Beetles & Beach Buggies, front-wheel-drives such as Minis & DEFINITELY no hatch-back, boy-racer, boom-box shopping trolleys!!! The situation re rear-engine / mid-engine envelope-pushers(!) will be the subject of discussion by the committee & may well be discussed at the next AGM (so bring your flasks & sandwiches!) In the meantime, as long as it's front-engined (& north to south) & driving the rear wheels, it's OK.

Any more grief & I'll start rejecting cars on aesthetics (how it looks)!!!LOL

ALL my details are published in EVERY Gasser at the bottom of the committee contacts page, IF IN DOUBT, RING ME! (I promise not to laugh - well, not too loudly anyway!) & PLEASE, remember, as with all the committee members, this all done in spare(?)time, so don't expect 24/7 service! (If that happens, it's a bonus!)

Right - let the discussions commence! But don't expect me to respond. This is for information only for members & potential members alike, so please accept it in the spirit it was intended.

Printed versions of these guidelines are usually available at major NSRA events, just ask, but why not print this out so you can keep it for when you need it?

Replies:

Reply author: v8trabant
Replied on: 04 Dec 2003 3:20:53 PM
Message:

hi mr tee
how does it work if you join the nsra on the familie membership
will you do two valuations for his and hers cars
using the same member no or do you have to join seperately.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 05 Dec 2003 02:30:05 AM
Message:

Family memberships use the same number, so yes you can have two (or more, eh Mr Gee?) vehicles on the same number.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 07 Dec 2003 3:56:20 PM
Message:

Just a couple more points to make.

Contrary to seemingly popular belief, the insured value is not based on what it would cost to build or buy another vehicle or what you have spent to buy or build it, it is a "market value" based on previous & existing examples as held on my database. Also, there are finite maximum values for any vehicle, depending on its particular build specification.

As it is impractical for me to personally inspect each vehicle, I have to rely on YOUR information regarding specification & YOUR photos to guide me in placing a value on it. If either or both of these are incomplete or indistinct (ie crap pics & indecipherable handwriting) I will do my best but, that will be what the value will be based on. So, in order to give your vehicle the best value, it's in your own interests to ensure that this information is as good as it possibly can be.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 11 Dec 2003 9:15:32 PM
Message:

& another thing!
If your '32, '34, Model A, whatever is built (Shush!)on another chassis such as a Cortina or something, I don't care & neither does Ian Fray. I will value it as whatever it looks like, not what it says on the VRD. & whilst we're on the subject, all you Model A lovers out there, PLEASE, PLEASE put down what year it is! I can never remember what the differences are between years & don't have time to look it up when doing a valuation.
Thank you & good night.

Reply author: ross@rmrrestorations
Replied on: 11 Dec 2003 10:38:02 PM
Message:

quote:

---

Originally posted by MisteR Tee

Just a couple more points to make.

Contrary to seemingly popular belief, the insured value is not based on what it would cost to build or buy another vehicle or what you have spent to buy or build it, it is a "market value" based on previous & existing examples as held on my database. Also, there are finite maximum values for any vehicle, depending on its particular build specification.

---

Reply author: beefyboy37
Replied on: 12 Dec 2003 11:30:40 AM
Message:

maurice,can you look at your inbox!

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 12 Dec 2003 1:31:50 PM
Message:

quote:

---

Originally posted by ross@rmrrestorations

quote:

---

Originally posted by MisteR Tee

Just a couple more points to make.

Contrary to seemingly popular belief, the insured value is not based on what it would cost to build or buy another vehicle or what you have spent to buy or build it, it is a "market value" based on previous & existing examples as held on my database. Also, there are finite maximum values for any vehicle, depending on its particular build specification.

---

So what is the "market value" for a series 1 Chevy pick-up, with all the goodies then?

---

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 31 Dec 2003 12:10:51 PM
Message:

If anuone else sends me back one of my pre-printed guideline sheets without either filling in all the details so I can read them OR doesn't put their NAME &/OR MEMBERSHIP NUMBER in the SPACES PROVIDED, then I'll assume your a LAX POWER guy! (& may even out you on this forum!)

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 09 Jul 2004 1:07:24 PM
Message:

Just keeping this near the top, thus keeping my profile high!:-) No, really, it seems you all need a regular reminder of what to do & how to do it (selective memories?). Plus , I've now discovered how to find my posts easily without scrolling through all 60 pages!!!

Reply author: rem
Replied on: 09 Jul 2004 9:36:08 PM
Message:

Perhaps this ought to be a 'sticky' topic?

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 20 Aug 2004 2:06:43 PM
Message:

Time for another update & bring this back up to the top again.

Please note that both the Brokers, ClassicLine & myself will now require a photocopy of your CURRENT NSRA membership card. This will speed up things for me (& you) as I ALWAYS check membership before I even look at an application/renewal. If your not in my current database as supplied by the NSRA membership sec., then I check with him first by email before doing anything . This obviously takes time as we both work, so enclosing the copy card will eliminate this process. Same goes for new members, I can't do anything until you get your card back, so please don't send applications in without a number.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 06 Dec 2004 6:43:32 PM
Message:

Time for another reminder on this topic.

Please note that these valuations are valid for TWO YEARS from the date of issue. It is YOUR responsibility to renew it PRIOR to the expiry date.
I would also ask that when you sell a car, you give the new owner the current or last-issued valuation cert., so they can forward that to me when they apply for a certificate in their name. Just makes life simpler, that's all.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 20 Dec 2004 6:08:28 PM
Message:

See updated/amended wording in vehicle eligibilty section.

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 26 Feb 2005 01:51:19 AM
Message:

quote:

---

Originally posted by MisteR Tee

Time for another update & bring this back up to the top again.

Please note that both the Brokers, ClassicLine & myself will now require a photocopy of your CURRENT NSRA membership card. This will speed up things for me (& you) as I ALWAYS check membership before I even look at an application/renewal. If your not in my current database as supplied by the NSRA membership sec., then I check with him first by email before doing anything . This obviously takes time as we both work, so enclosing the copy card will eliminate this process. Same goes for new members, I can't do anything until you get your card back, so please don't send applications in without a number.

---

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 24 May 2005 7:33:17 PM
Message:

Time for another reminder of a few simple points to bear in mind when applying for a valuation or a renewal.

1) Put enough postage on your envelope so it gets to me!!! (& on your return envelope as well please)

2) Put a return address on the back of your envelope, so if you don't do the above, it gets sent back to you without too much delay.

3) Make sure you've read the GUIDELINES carefully & understood them. If in doubt, ring me.

4) Make sure your vehicle qualifies first before submitting it.

5) If your handwriting is anything like mine, then type your spec sheet out (or get someone to do it for you!) It might make sense to you, but may not to me!

6) Go on a photography course!! What I mean is think about what you are trying to do with them. I need to see all of the car, not an arty close up of one bit & I have been known to reject an application because of crap pics!!!

7) THERE IS NO FORM TO FILL IN SO DON'T ASK FOR ONE!!!

All this is to make it easier for you & me, remember I am only human (no, really) & can only work with what you send me.

Here's to a great new season, hope to see some of you at a run.

Reply author: Joe_G
Replied on: 18 Jul 2005 11:21:10 PM
Message:

quote:

---

Originally posted by MisteR Tee

Finally, the elegibility (or otherwise) of vehicles.


At the moment, we do NOT accept rear-engined vehicles ,

---

Reply author: MisteR Tee
Replied on: 19 Jul 2005 4:09:37 PM
Message:

Two strikes & it's out.
1) It's rear-engined
2) It's stock.

Sorry.