Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
Depends really but i like to see 2-2.5" minimum, I take it you have a bumpstop on the coilovers ??? I'm not keen on these as i prefer to use a chassis mounted stop. Most streetrod suspensions are way over sprung so don't move that much but in an emergency stop situation can move a lot further than you imagine.
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
I know a lot of people had a wet week-end but I seemed to get away pretty light Sunday was the worst day! Saturday saw me out with the cutting disk starting to plate up all the modifications to the front of the chassis.
First was the passenger side re-shaped rail.
Next on to the rail ends where I had to re-shape to miss the front sheet metal.
Then I moved on to the steering box mount outer side.
Then the Inner side.
And finally the boxing plate, first I shaped the bit to join to the mounting bracket
Then got on with some metal forming to make the finished shape.
Still no sign of any rain so I got the MIG out and welded the front rail plates in.
Then moved over to the passenger side rail.
Then it was round the steering box, I tacked the outside plate.
Then the inside plate and boxing plate.
Then fully welded both the bracket and the plates.
That was me done until Monday morning, then I bolted the front axle and steering on.
That’s it for now, next job is to put that RV8 in the remaining space! More when I do more.
Cheers. Tim W.
Great work as usual Tim, glad you got some good weather, bleedin weekend looks cold again though
Good luck,
Cheers,
Mike C.
Nice work there Tim, that's a few more jobs ticked off..
may the sun continue to shine!
I have managed to do a bit on the Pop!
You know, that moment where you sit the motor in the freshly made hole in the bulkhead! Yep she’s starting to look like a Hot Rod.
You can see by the way the block sits at that jaunty angle that the steering box/column will have to be removed for now.
The next job was to make a bit of room inside.
I didn’t see any point in cutting the original “K” member out only to replace it with another that I had fabricated so I decided to relieve it as necessary then box it later.
Now she sits in the hole all square and level.
I thought I should bolt the headers on as well at this point.
I bit the bullet and cut the steering box free from the column!
This is my engine mount of choice, I think it’s a Landie one.
My card template.
As used for trial and fit.
Convert that into some pieces of 5mm P&O.
With a bit of a hammer and prep you end up with this…
Out with the welder.
And here’s the finished two.
With the engine mounts on.
Passenger side on
Drivers side on
Next I will sort the gearbox mount so I can get it all set and level prior to making the chassis mounts, more when I do more.
Cheers. Tim W.
Hi Tim,
Good work as usual, it's good to see that you are considering the motor, that's good progress
Cheers,
Mike C.
Tim don't forget to drill a drain hole in them mounts.
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
Tim,
I think the motor needs to be mounted with rake toward the back,something to do with oil,but cant remember why.
Cant remember what degree of angle it needs to be either.
Im sure John will remember...
Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.
www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks, Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist
I have been able to do a bit on the Pop lately; I whipped the bell housing off the engine and put it back on the gearbox so I could get the gearbox bolted to the engine.
In order to make sure I was not too far forward (space for a radiator would be nice – I still remember the CC Marina pick-up) I quickly put the front panels on.
Happy with that I set about mounting the tail end of the gearbox
With the box section relieved and clamped in place, I sat and decided how to join the two together..
I came up with a sketch and some plates.
This is what I came up with.
Happy with that I trimmed, drilled and bolted them to the cross member.
Next was the central rubber mount, this I recessed into the box section to make it look a little tidier.
Then I tacked the cross member in place – job’s a good ‘un.
Next it was onto the near side chassis engine mount, the mounts were never going to be the same as the off side has to step round the steering box. Started with an hour of cardboard cutting.
Taking shape now.
Kit of parts from my trusty sheet of 5mm P&O (my ears were ringing after chopping those out).
All tacked up ready for a trial fit. Note the drain hole, despite what my missus say’s you only have to tell me once!!
It only fits.
That’s it fully welded, as I wait for it to cool down.
Job done, tacked on to the chassis and taking the weight of the engine.
Now it’s on to the off side, so I started me Blue Peter again.
I then realised that the spring cross member was going to have to go. I had often thought it would but was always reluctant to chop it out just in case I needed it. So I cut a bit of tube as a spreader bar to put in the end of the rails.
Out with the cut-off wheel again and there it is gone.
So I was able to finish my cardboard mock up
Back to the shed and the 5mm P&O with a bit of 25 x 6 black flat thrown in for good measure.
All tacked up ready to trial fit.
That seems to do the job.
So it gets fully welded.
Fitted back in place once it’s cooled and tacked to the chassis.
All good on the level front.
And there she sits.
Next job is to take it all out again and fully weld the brackets to the chassis, while I’m in there I will box the rest of the chassis as well.
That’s it for now, more when I do more.
Cheers. Tim W.
Very good work as allways