Page 2 of 12 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 239

Thread: One of these days T Truck

  1. #21
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    OK a bit of an update. Rear of the frame has now been extended (And strengthened). IRS mounts added, along with a front dif 'loop' from Pop Browns'. Gearbox loop with radius rod brackets and trans bracket. Since these photo's (Read this morning) the radius rods have been completed and fitted in. Spent the afternoon figuring out the floor frame for the cab and how it will mount. Sadly I just realised my rear wheel nuts are the wrong thread so I may 'not' have a roller for Christmas....

    Dear Santa, along with the customary orange in my stocking this year can I have Jag wheel nuts not wall-nuts???



    Frame finally back together after about 12-13 years.



    Central trans loop with 6mm thick bracing (Thanks to Whengparts)



    Diff all mounted (Radius rods under reconstruction) I've used plain bosses for the 'arm' ends of the rods as I find the use of spherical bearings a bit odd at a point where nothing moves.
    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-12 at 02:11 PM.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  2. #22
    Guest 53pop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,615
    hi there is a truck like this in one of my old books how to build a street rod think it got a red coupe on front cover might be worth a look if you can find one

  3. #23
    NSRA member langysrodshop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    28,748
    Images
    53
    Steve are you using a Pinto engine ??? If so you could easily do away with the radius rods, I ran a Jag irs for years without them with a V8, They are originally there to support the rubber mounted cage in stock config.


    Quote Originally Posted by Knowledge View Post
    OK a bit of an update. Rear of the frame has now been extended (And strengthened). IRS mounts added, along with a front dif 'loop' from Pop Browns'. Gearbox loop with radius rod brackets and trans bracket. Since these photo's (Read this morning) the radius rods have been completed and fitted in. Spent the afternoon figuring out the floor frame for the cab and how it will mount. Sadly I just realised my rear wheel nuts are the wrong thread so I may 'not' have a roller for Christmas....

    Dear Santa, along with the customary orange in my stocking this year can I have Jag wheel nuts not wall-nuts???



    Frame finally back together after about 12-13 years.



    Central trans loop with 6mm thick bracing (Thanks to Whengparts)



    Diff all mounted (Radius rods under reconstruction) I've used plain bosses for the 'arm' ends of the rods as I find the use of spherical bearings a bit odd at a point where nothing moves.
    Any advice or help given is actually based on having done the job, not read about doing it or Googling it.

    www.langysrodshop.co.uk Our parts are air freighted so 5-7 day delivery, The best GRP Willys body available/Rebel Wirings only UK dealer/Speedway Motors authorised dealer/Summit racing/Jegs/Hotrod parts supplied, MAC Autos, We deal with all the US hotrod suppliers even non car related stuff.
    Brake,Oil & Fuel etc plumbing stockist/Totally Stainless fastener dealer/Dolphin Instrument dealer, LMC & Brothers Trucks,
    Stainless Exhaust tube & mandrel bends stockist

  4. #24
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by 53pop View Post
    hi there is a truck like this in one of my old books how to build a street rod think it got a red coupe on front cover might be worth a look if you can find one
    I have an old battered copy of said book..and yes that was 50% of my inspiration. If I remember rightly it's Jag suspension front and back with a Ford V8 a midships. Came with a mural (Yes it IS the 70's) on the cabs quarters saying something like 'Keep on Truckin'.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  5. #25
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Lang View Post
    Steve are you using a Pinto engine ??? If so you could easily do away with the radius rods, I ran a Jag irs for years without them with a V8, They are originally there to support the rubber mounted cage in stock config.
    Nope, Rover V8 and GM 180. I know what you mean about the radius rods though as the IRS I originally had came out of a 318 Chrysler powered Themes van (The big one not the Pop type) and he didn't have any radius rods either. Rods are made and fitted now anyway, and it kinda 'visually' ties the rear end in to the rest seeing as the frame is so high up. Should look nice in bright yellow and black.

    Ooops. Writers block earlier I see. Pop Brown doesn't make the 'Diff loop' he makes the plate under the Diff that connects to the loop....
    Last edited by Knowledge; 19-12-10 at 06:06 PM.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  6. #26
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10

    5 Stud hub conversion

    As said in earlier postings the front uprights are actually from a P100 pickup. I chose these as I wanted 5 stud fronts so I could use the Cal 500 slots I’d obtained to match the rears (10 x 15 R, 6 x 14 F). That said the stud pattern on a P100 wasn’t right even though they are uni-lug wheels. Re-drilling Cortina hubs is a none starter as the castings don’t have metal where you want it but the P100 ones do. Sadly I lost the photos where I re-drilled these so I hope the explanation works alone. After careful setting up on my mill I used a cutter to bore out a much larger hole where the studs fitted. Using a milling cutter (Slot drill) meant it stayed put rather than pull to one side as a drill would have (Trying to go down the offset hole). Next a larger milling cutter created a pocket in the back face of the hub. As the brake disc fit flush behind the hub it was important to have the pockets. Next 10 mushroom headed bushes were turned on a Capstan lathe each in turn with a pocket to take the head of the wheel stud. Next it’s just a matter of welding all 10 bushes in place and that gives me Cortina Mk3 suspension with Jag/Chevy stud pattern.
    Word of warning; DON’T weld up the original holes in the hubs then try to have them re-drilled. The weld is usually VERY hard and you’ll be lucky to get good centre on the drill holes, that’s if you manage to drill at all, even with a Tungsten Carbide drill bit.
    Here’s the machined hub. No it’s not a Granada one.


    Here is one of the mushroom head bushes.


    And here’s one fitted with stud ready for welding in (Note only the bush gets welded).
    Last edited by Knowledge; 24-12-10 at 11:07 AM.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  7. #27
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    7,752
    Quote Originally Posted by Knowledge View Post
    As said in earlier postings the front uprights are actually from a P100 pickup. I chose these as I wanted 5 stud fronts so I could use the Cal 500 slots I’d obtained to match the rears (10 x 15 R, 6 x 14 F). That said the stud pattern on a P100 wasn’t right even though they are uni-lug wheels. Re-drilling Cortina hubs is a none starter as the castings don’t have metal where you want it but the P100 ones do. Sadly I lost the photos where I re-drilled these so I hope the explanation works alone. After careful setting up on my mill I used a cutter to bore out a much larger hole where the studs fitted. Using a milling cutter (Slot drill) meant it stayed put rather than pull to one side as a drill would have (Trying to go down the offset hole). Next a larger milling cutter created a pocket in the back face of the hub. As the brake disc fit flush behind the hub it was important to have the pockets. Next 10 mushroom headed bushes were turned on a Capstan lathe each in turn with a pocket to take the head of the wheel stud. Next it’s just a matter of welding all 10 bushes in place and that gives me Cortina Mk3 suspension with Jag/Chevy stud pattern.
    Word of warning; DON’T weld up the original holes in the hubs then try to have them re-drilled. The weld is usually VERY hard and you’ll be lucky to get good centre on the drill holes, that’s if you manage to drill at all, even with a Tungsten Carbide drill bit.
    Here’s the machined hub. No it’s not a Granada one.


    Here is one of the mushroom head bushes.


    And here’s one fitted with stud ready for welding in (Note only the bush gets welded.
    you do realise that mk3/4/5 cortina and p100 or granada uprights arent interchangeable on the the others subframes and wishbones dont you?

  8. #28
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by eeb43 View Post
    you do realise that mk3/4/5 cortina and p100 or granada uprights arent interchangeable on the the others subframes and wishbones dont you?
    ??? Fits on mine. This P100 was the very old Cortina Mk4 P100 not the Sierra one.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  9. #29
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    7,752
    Quote Originally Posted by Knowledge View Post
    ??? Fits on mine. This P100 was the very old Cortina Mk4 P100 not the Sierra one.
    if i was you i would check the angle of the wheel as the mk4 cortina p100 only used the cortina top and bottom ball joints everything else is one off

  10. #30
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by eeb43 View Post
    if i was you i would check the angle of the wheel as the mk4 cortina p100 only used the cortina top and bottom ball joints everything else is one off
    Now I'm not one to assume that I'm always right so I took heed and got out my rulers and vernier this morning. Perhaps I got lucky and picked up the uprights from a model that was based on Cortina dimensions, let's face it Ford have a habit of small changes over a period of time. The ones I have are all to Cortina geometry. The only difference I found was the inner bearings which are larger. All the rest, seals, outer (Small) bearings, nuts, cap, are the same. True this does mean I must use the P100 uprights in the Cortina sub-frame not just change hubs, but all is OK thankfully. Thanks for making me look into it all though Mark as I didn't know the bearings didn't cross over and one of the P100's is wrecked (Prefer all new anyway).
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  11. #31
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    7,752
    have another look the p100 uprights are i believe the same as granada and on a cortina subframe the top of the wheel will stick out further than a cortina

  12. #32
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by eeb43 View Post
    have another look the p100 uprights are i believe the same as granada and on a cortina subframe the top of the wheel will stick out further than a cortina
    As said I checked. Geometry is all the same. That said it's all a mute point now as today's activities turned up a horror story..with a happy ending.
    I've had the P100 uprights for the best part of 12 years. In order to work on them I stripped one down 100% but just dropped the hub off on the other and placed it to one side (Still covered in kack). As I started to strip the other upright ready to temp' fit to the suspension today the horror came out (See pic). I guess a previous owner had a bearing failure and this abortion is what they did to repair it. Either way that means the P100 uprights are now bin fodder. However all is saved. Now as stated in my posting the other day I discovered that the P100 hub inner bearings are larger than a Cortina, but even though the P100 bearing inner race (Inner bearing) is larger the outer race is the same size as the Cortina race. The result is I now will be using Cortina bearings, in the P100 hubs, with Cortina uprights. Oh! and just in case you thought it yes the P100 hub flanges are the same distance as the Cortina hubs so there won't be a change in wheel offset.

    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  13. #33
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10

    Old pic

    Having found the original pics from the late 90's I thought I'd scan one or two. I'll add the others later, but it's 12:16 and I need my bed.









    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-12 at 02:15 PM.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  14. #34
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10

    What dash?

    I saw in the wanted adds a posting about a T dash and it made me think of this:-
    With all these dashes floating around it’s made me think. OK the ‘Woodie truck’ has a flat bottom edge to the front screen not a curve like 27T’s A’s or B’s. There will be a T style steering wheel and a billet(ish) column. What sort of dash do you think I should have? Bare in mind that the front of the cab is TOTALLY flat. Said dash will have to come out a ways to give room for the heater (Mini van) which is under it. Also if I have it too far away from the driving position I wouldn’t be able to reach any switches. Dash will be 48” across. If you have a pick please put it up. Cheers.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  15. #35
    NSRA member
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1,263
    Images
    1
    It looks like the orignal is for sale on flee bay
    MY DINNER SIDE IS FULL...............
    BUT MY PUDDING SIDE IS EMPTY....
    __________________________________________________ __________________

  16. #36
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by nicknick View Post
    It looks like the orignal is for sale on flee bay
    ??? I assume you're refering to the Belch beer wagon. I truly confess I'd actually never seen it before I designed my truck, although I was inspired by the American C cab truck refered to earlier.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  17. #37
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Been busy in the garage (Where I should be). Sorted how the brakes will now go and given the shifter a bit of thought. Otherwise I've finally added those extra pics to the post above. I know it all looks a little scrappy, but trust me once blasted and given some paint it will look a lot better.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  18. #38
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Well it’s been a while since I posted anything but that’s because I’ve been busy where I belong… IN THE GARAGE. Prop-shaft has been obtained from Bailey Morris in Eaton Socon.

    At the front I’ve fabricated the steering shaft (VW transfer box to rack). At the front of that the VW box has one of its isolators to cut out high frequency vibrations but I had to do some searching to figure out how to connect to it to the shaft. Mad thing is I discovered that even though a VW is metric the splines are Imperial, and just to get even more silly turns out I had just the job already in the garage. So that larger front splined part of the shaft in pic 2 is the top of an Escort steering column (Yep the bit the steering wheel goes on) the other end is the part that fits to the UJ on a rack. Demon Tweaks supplied the UJ and the tube between is actually a section from a Fiesta steering shaft. The front tube the VW box sits on hasn’t been welded on as I shall next form the front face of the cab and that tube is the lower section.


    The Cab floor has been fully welded up and brackets added to it and the main chassis to bolt the cab on with. Polly bushes fit between to damp noise. The master cylinder sits on a bracket in the centre of the Main chassis front tube, and gets ‘pushed’ by a cut off section of Fiesta brake tube. In the Fiesta this takes pedal movement from the RHS of the car to the MC which is still sat where it’s used on a LHD car. Under floor pedal is VW bus. I ground off its original pivot boss and that left a hole that just happened to be the same size as the Fiesta tube. By rights this means that to remove the cab I just need to remove the pin from the MC push-rod, Disconnect the throttle, Wiring, shifter cable, heater hoses, remove the four bolts and the lot will lift off (I’ll show how later).
    Last edited by Knowledge; 17-07-12 at 02:17 PM.
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

  19. #39
    NSRA member Morris460's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    3,986
    Images
    4
    Coming on!
    That U/J angle looks a bit much, is it the photo angle?
    Layabout.

  20. #40
    NSRA member Knowledge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    3,253
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Morris460 View Post
    Coming on!
    That U/J angle looks a bit much, is it the photo angle?
    Looks worse in the photo. It runs smooth though with no sign of angular differentiation (Speeds up n slows down).
    I know you think you believe you understood what I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what I said isn't always what I meant.


    My Intro '

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •