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Thread: what to look out for?

  1. #1

    what to look out for?

    Hi
    Newbie after a bit of advice...
    What do you need to look out for when buying a used turnkey Pop?
    Im most concerned about chassis rot... Is chassis rot a common problem? Are original or boxed or pattern chassis most likely to be rotten? Do they rust from the inside? How do you spot chassis rot problems?
    Is there anything else to look out for?

  2. #2
    Guest chop-n-pop's Avatar
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    chassis rot is a big problem with pops..
    i would know.. lol. you can see straight through mine..
    i dont have the experiance to say weather they rot from the inside out or visa versa...
    but its usually underneath the A pillar that it goes, just as the chassis steps up...
    hope thats some help...
    -liam

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by chop-n-pop View Post
    chassis rot is a big problem with pops..
    its usually underneath the A pillar that it goes, just as the chassis steps up...
    -liam
    Thanks, im surprised at that, i thought the back end would be the problem but if i understand rightly youre saying they go around the firewall?

  4. #4
    Guest chop-n-pop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vvankel View Post
    Thanks, im surprised at that, i thought the back end would be the problem but if i understand rightly youre saying they go around the firewall?
    i havent seen any rot at the back of mine... yet.. lol thats all on the rear wings.

    and yeah pretty much, but don't rely on just me, as im only 16 and don't have much experience under my belt..

  5. #5
    NSRA member chris's Avatar
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    i'd say,if the chassis has been boxed then there's a good chance the cars been rodded (i guess thats why your here anyway) and any rot would of been cut out and replaced.no harm in checking it all though ;-)

    body rot checks...
    A post (including door hinges)
    B post
    inner wings (front and rear)
    rear panel
    roof gutters
    inside boot.

    think that pretty much covers it...?

    oh,and welcome on board!!


  6. #6
    Guest hershambob's Avatar
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    find out what repair panels are avalible(pop browns)cos those will be the areas to look at

  7. #7
    Guest poprodder's Avatar
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    hi,
    i would say most important piece to look at and hardest to repair are the roof gutters.
    chassis rots behind a-piller(door post) mine fell in half there!!! its really just like buying any classic, look everywhere, as they can rot from top to bottom.
    cheers chris.

  8. #8
    NSRA member Rossphotos's Avatar
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    Buying a Pop

    Many original Pops now have corrosion in the chassis but I have never seen a rodded one with a chassis in poor condition. Most rodders will have cut out any rusted areas and welded in new metal. If the chassis has been replaced with a new one e.g. Jago then there should be no problems at all. The body rots in the wings, bottom of the door posts, bootlid, panel below bootlid and around the inner wings where the outer wings are attached. All of this is fairly easy and cheap to repair or replace, but watch out for bubbles in the paint in the roof panel and guttering hiding rust as this is difficult to sort out.

    Otherwise the most important thing is to make sure you take a short road test to ensure that brakes, steering and suspension all work safely. Watch out for bump steer on badly surfaced roads which would suggest that the steering is incorrectly set up. The brakes should pull up straight without grabbing or locking up easily and the car should handle fairly well, if not quite in the Ford Focus league! You will never be satisfied with a car that has faults in any of these areas. I would also suggest that it would be a very good idea to get in touch with a local rodder, especially a Pop owner, who could go along with you to check out any cars for sale. Best of luck with your search.
    I know a man who is addicted to brake fluid. He says he can stop anytime.

  9. #9
    Guest Jonny69's Avatar
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    As said, they rot at the bottom of the A pillar, the back panel rusts badly, bottom of the bootlid and where the chassis kicks over the back axle. They also rust out round the channel where the roof insert pushes in.

    I've got new joints on all my steering and new kingpins and there's still play in the steering. I think it's the old style spring loaded balljoints are just crap.

  10. #10
    Guest poprodder's Avatar
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    I've got new joints on all my steering and new kingpins and there's still play in the steering. I think it's the old style spring loaded balljoints are just crap.

    thats filled me with confidence jon!!! lol

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rossphotos View Post
    Many original Pops now have corrosion in the chassis but I have never seen a rodded one with a chassis in poor condition. Most rodders will have cut out any rusted areas and welded in new metal. If the chassis has been replaced with a new one e.g. Jago then there should be no problems at all. The body rots...
    Thanks very much to everyone for the advice.
    Im assuming that a rodded car will have a sorted body and its reassuring to hear that no self respecting UK rodder would try to sell one with a rotten chassis.
    I was wondering if boxing an original chassis could trap water inside and cause problems... or is it normal practise to close off the ends so that water cant get in?
    Im suprised to hear that there are no problems with 30 year old Jago chassis, ive encountered a jago built box section chassis (not a pop) which had open ends to the box sections and, while it looked ok on the outside, it had rotted badly from the inside. Are the Jago Pop chassis made from u section or box section? and if theyre box, are the ends closed off?
    Thanks again all.

  12. #12
    NSRA member pikko's Avatar
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    If youre going down the rod route but dont wanna change the original chassis then boxing the original is a must. Much more power than the original side valve will put too much stress on the chassis. I'd favour you leave the ends of the chassis open and load em up with wax oil. Just make sure that all the welding is totally finished first or........ KABOOM!!!! lol. Extra cross members as well will help stiffen the chassis a treat.
    A clean car is a sign of a sick mind!
    -<< Engine Fire-up . My Pop >>-

  13. #13
    Unfortunately i lack the skills or the time to build my own, i would be looking at buying a ready rod then, over a period of time, making the required changes to personalise it.
    Not quite ready to buy just yet but i have a plan and the light at the end of the tunnel is slowly getting brighter.
    Last edited by BaronVonVVankel; 01-03-08 at 11:05 PM. Reason: added another thought

  14. #14
    NSRA member chris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vvankel View Post
    .
    Im assuming that a rodded car will have a sorted body and its reassuring to hear that no self respecting UK rodder would try to sell one with a rotten chassis.


    dont assume anything!
    the person selling the car may of only had it for 3 months and not done any work to it.check it over well if your spending big money and give it some sympathy if it's a well used daily driver.


  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by cjh View Post
    dont assume anything!
    Fair point well made

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