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Thread: How to get a Pro Street Pop through BIVA

  1. #41
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    New washer jets are now temporarily fitted, had to drill the body from 3mm to 8mm holes so no going back now! I don't like them as much as the chrome ones but I don't hate them, plus side is they will be easier to polish around.



    They don't have any fixing though?? so I need something like this to hold them in - not sure what it's called though?


  2. #42
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    A bit more progress today, smoothed out bonnet spoon is painted and loosely fitted to nose;



    New radiused spill plates are in primer;



    Shifter cover in primer ready for silver or satin black - not sure which yet?



    Also took steering column apart as I've just bought a nice transponder ignition inhibitor - hopefully an easy splice into the loom as nearly all wires that need connecting are in the column except one which might mean taking the column loom back out to the engine bay to fit

    Took boot panels out to look for the spare wire for the foglamp - but can't find it??? I know I left a spare wire in the loom so more investigating will be needed!

  3. #43
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Only got one coat of paint on so far so finish is poor but the wing spar covers are looking good. Probably should have drilled the holes a little rearward as they only just cover the front spar but the 100mm ball cannot touch anything so it's all good.





    Just need to flat them off and get a couple more coats of paint on them.

  4. #44
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Another part that is an issue is the choke/heater/trip recorder knobs on the dashboard so an easy fix is to make a clear lexan cover on stand-off's to get all the parts within the accepted measurements. I will machine holes for the mentioned buttons to fit into so they are reachable but not sticking out.




    Panel loosely held up to show where it will go. It will be fitted using the original dash panel fixing threads so no modifications needed to the car.


  5. #45
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Been quiet lately as been in France doing 60mph+ down mountains with planks fixed to my feet

    More interior trimming is being done - might even finish it soon! and more painting of parts is happening.

    Thinking of machining my own number plates but the original fonts are nigh on impossible to find now so had to draw my own. Fairly happy with them but not sure on the Q, left one is more legal but right one looks a little nicer? Text on right is a little lower in the centreline too - does it look better?


  6. #46
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Hmmm.... how about this one?


  7. #47
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Managed a little work on the car tonight, finished off the trim panel above the screen.



    It covers the access holes in the upper screen panel, so no more sharp edges for the tester man to find It also was something I needed to do as I've not finished all the interior trim yet anyway.

    It fits here;


  8. #48
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Another little bit of progress, my shifter knob is too 'sharp' so Mr Tee off the NSRA kindly donated a spare wood one to me.
    I'll paint it black (did this today but no photos yet) and that's that bit sorted.


  9. #49
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Today was mostly wiring, rear fog lamp wiring in with switch & warning lamp fitted.
    next bit was the ignition immobiliser - this involved stripping the column wiring right out so I could add a couple of wires into the loom but it's almost completed now. No photos of this bit for security reasons - it's the anti theft bit.

    Couple of photos of the painted gearknob and the shifter cover, just the window to add and the leather gaiter and thats that bit completed.




  10. #50
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Some replies off the other thread;

    Great progress.......you seem to have switched almost seamlessly into BIVA mode/mindset. What was an outstanding build originally has got even better.

    I was only thinking yesterday that someone will/has took all "this ****" that DVLA throws around with the defence of ..."right, fk you DVLA, watch this for a trick"...and produce some very nice intricate work as posted above, ....sort of a challenge thrown down if you will..
    I imagine big money could be earned for the folks who can/will do it for other people?
    Props to the folks who do this stuff the correct way, hence my dislike of that ratrod dangerous ****


    Thanks Guys, TBH I just see it as an extension of the original build.


    /\ THAT'S the attitude !!

    It REALLY isn't as bad as most would have you believe . Factored in from the start , like Portland Pops build, it 'easy' enough.
    Yep, if I'd built for the test initially it would have been a breeze.

    Luckily I did take heed of your warnings years ago Kev and did build anything I could (that was not already done) to try to comply.

    That's the reason I say to all, regardless if you are building to 8 points, BIVA or whatever, if you follow the no cost BIVA option when building the you are much better off if you need to use BIVA later down the line.

  11. #51
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    2 steps forward & 1 step back tonight.
    re-read the foglight section and realised I'd taken power from the sidelight circuit - not dipped beam - so I had to rewire the wiring I did yesterday.
    On the plus side & found another spare wire up to the roof panel that will be ideal for the brake fluid reservoir senders - I knew those spare circuits would come in handy when I wired it, I just forgot how many I had left in

    Gearshift now done - just needs a leather gaiter over the shaft to cover the sharp edges on that - there is a lexan window fitted but it does not show in the photo.



    Next problem area is the overhead dash.
    These LED surrounds are too sharp (yes really!) so need to be covered,



    And these switches stick out too far - the edges of the guages are a bit suspect too........



    So my solution is to make a cover panel to get them all recessed. This will be covered in 6mm zote foam and then trimmed in black leatherette.



    Ball now clears all the guages



    And the switches are protuding less than 9.5mm where the ball can touch so the 3mm radius rule applies which the red covers are fine for.



    And those LED lamps will now be recessed in the trimmed area.

    That should keep the tester man happy


  12. #52
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    People asked if there was a BIVA 'test kit' sadly -no.


    The balls are cake decorating balls! lol.

    Outside on the car everything is measured with a 100mm ball (represents a knee) inside is a 165mm ball (represents a head) Anything the balls can touch must either have a 3mm radius outside car and 3.2mm inside car except in the roof area where it must be 5mm radius. If it sticks out less than a few mm (need to check manual for exact amount & will edit later) it must be blunted. The large styrene ball is 170mm but its close enough for my purposes.

    The main radius rules for interior are here;

    1.
    Interior design features and fittings in the “specified zone” which are contactable with a 165mm sphere in a forward direction must have a radius of curvature of 2.5mm or greater, except where a projection from a
    panel is less than 3.2mm where the edges must be at least blunted. (see note 3, 4and 9) see annex 1 and 2
    2.
    Interior design features and fittings below the “specified zone” that are not adaptations for a disabled person and which are contactable with a 100mm sphere in a forward direction must be at least blunted. (see note 3, 4 and 9) see annex 2
    3.
    Switches, controls and equipment associated with those switches and controls that are designed or modified for the use of a disabled person and are contactable with a 165mm sphere must be at least blunted
    4.
    The edges of all gaps (i.e. grills, holes, recesses etc.) of not more than 20mm (determined by the contact points of a 165mm sphere bridging the gap) must be blunted.
    5.
    Control features mounted on a heating or ventilation grill element area which can be contacted by a 165mm diameter sphere must be at least blunted.
    6.
    All switches, control knobs etc which are mounted on the instrument panel which are within the "specified zone", contactable by a 165mm diameter Sphere and protrude from the instrument panel by more than 9.5mm must
    be likely to retract or detach with no sharp edges when subject to an impact of 40kgf (see Note 5)
    7.
    The instrument panel lower edge within the “specified zone” must have a radius of curvature not less than 19mm or 5mm and be covered with a non-rigid material, except where an adaptation for a disabled person makes it impossible to comply. (see notes 6 & 7)
    9.
    The gear-lever in all forward gear positions must have a radius of curvature of at least 3.2mm, on all surfaces contactable with a 165mm sphere. (see note 3 and10)

  13. #53
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Ho-hum, fun tonight.

    Added the reverse light wiring into the loom and started to run it back through the car, tried the multimeter on it but no power
    Stripped out the shifter to look at how I wired it and accidentally cut a wire by mistake. Sussed the wiring and removed one feed from the weather pack connector and snipped the end off & plugged in the reverse feed - all working good

    Then tried starting the car.............................................er rr...............the wire I removed must have been the neutral safety switch return............hmmmmm.....why didn't I finish my wiring diagrams...............

    A google search later brought up the odd wiring for the shifter, so tested it again & sussed it properly........so whats the little skinny green wire for that I put in?..............where does it go...............hmmmmmm..........to the back of the car...........it's the reverse lamp circuit.

    SO........all my work tonight was not necessary because I was anal enough to actually wire in all the circuits originally........but I forgot I did it............. DOH!!!!!!

    On the plus side its all neat and no extra wiring is needed

  14. #54
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Another area (on my car) that will fail is the ignition barrel. As mine is below the bottom of the steering wheel it falls into the testable area.
    The edge of the barrel is not radiused enough, the washer might fail and the nut that holds it together needs the edges of the 'slots' blunted (they have already been done in this photo)


    Simple solution is to make a new bigger 3mm washer with a proper radius on it - job done.



    Roof panel has the foam glued to it, still needs trimming in leatherette.



    Foglamp wired in with amber tell tale, foam needs to be glued on the inside of the panel (just visible on right) as well as this area needs a 5mm radius (all roof parts must have 5mm radius with soft edges in the area of your head)



    Ignition immobiliser fitted with tell tale lamp (car needs a good clean!)



    Brake fluid reservoir switches fitted & wired in - note the mandatory sticker stating the type of fluid required.


  15. #55
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Smoothed bonnet spoon finished & fitted, check.



    When Chris came round to go through the car with me he thought the rear wing mounts needed radiused covers on them, but looking at these photos the 100mm ball cannot touch them at any point - it does touch the allen bolt but that can have the plastic plug fitted in it.

    As the ball cannot touch I don't think I need to touch them? the edges are radiused and they protrude less than 5mm so only need to be blunted (which they are).

  16. #56
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    I got the light bar made at work today;



    It will fit here - think a MkII version will be getting made as its lower than I want - it needs tucking up tight to the bodywork and I can narrow it a bit as well. Reflectors are temporarily fixed in position as well to see if I like them. Final position after test will probably be just tucked under the wing on a little bracket.



    Close up of the light panel - tucked tight to the body & painted black it should 'dissappear' nicely. Lights may get a light smoke after the test - not sure yet.


  17. #57
    NSRA member Blackpopracing's Avatar
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    Well that's brought the thread up to date, I hope its informative and will dispel some of the myths and fear of the BIVA issues.

  18. #58
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    Thanks for the updates Mark - you're doing some amazing work using some real hot-rodder thinking to get round what might appear to be problems - that's going to be one helluva car once you have that BIVA pass certificate in your hands!

  19. #59
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    Excellent write up Mark, really informative and the pics really help understand all the issues
    Left no plate
    Cheers
    John

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackpopracing View Post
    New washer jets are now temporarily fitted, had to drill the body from 3mm to 8mm holes so no going back now! I don't like them as much as the chrome ones but I don't hate them, plus side is they will be easier to polish around.



    They don't have any fixing though?? so I need something like this to hold them in - not sure what it's called though?



    try push on fixings.

    http://www.sdproducts.co.uk/push-on-fixes-1

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