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Thread: 32 B Sedan queeries

  1. #121
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    yes essex head bolts are fine to reuse. top tip straight from a ford main dealer mechanic at the time, tighten the head bolts at least 15 lb/ft more than (no more than 100lb/ft max' though) the manual says on these engines. this stops them blowing head gaskets and it worked for me on 2 i worked on that kept doing gaskets despite having the heads and block 'faced' on each.
    neil.

  2. #122
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mygasser View Post
    yes essex head bolts are fine to reuse. top tip straight from a ford main dealer mechanic at the time, tighten the head bolts at least 15 lb/ft more than (no more than 100lb/ft max' though) the manual says on these engines. this stops them blowing head gaskets and it worked for me on 2 i worked on that kept doing gaskets despite having the heads and block 'faced' on each.
    neil.

    Yup, twas what I always did and for good measure a decent coat of sprerex on both faces of the gasket would also help.
    Galations 6:7

  3. #123
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Yup, twas what I always did and for good measure a decent coat of sprerex on both faces of the gasket would also help.
    yes mate, most yank 'rebuild' books say spray head gaskets with aluminum paint. i use silver wheels, a couple of coats allowed to dry before use and not had a blown gasket yet.

  4. #124
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Iv'e not heard about this spraying the gaskets with aluminium paint before!
    How does that work? Iv'e always put a very thin smear of GT85 on both sides.
    I read somewhere to tighten the bolts to around 90ft/lb's in 3 stages?
    Last edited by BuffaloBill; 23-01-20 at 10:07 AM.

  5. #125
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    90lb/ft would do it, i usually go to 100. i've also used wellseal on gaskets with good success, smells like s**t though.
    neil.

  6. #126
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Does anyone have any idea what this is all about? When I took the fuel tank off, there was this scraping noise
    coming from in the tank. This is what I found. They are non-magnetic and not stainless so is it some sort of
    lead replacement? Iv'e never come across this before.
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  7. #127
    NSRA member nigelh's Avatar
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    From memory they were a gimmick. Sold so you could use unleaded in an older vehicle. The theory being they supplied the lead.

    Sent from my ANE-LX1 using NSRA mobile app
    Today I realised that I'm not as young as I once was

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  8. #128
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Thanks Nigel.
    One more question if I may.
    What does this do? It consists of 2 small pipes coming out of what looks like a valve set into the inlet manifold through to the water jacket.
    It has a connecting pipe from 1 outlet to the other and appears to be washer bottle piping. Iv'e got the Scimitar manual but I can't find any
    mention of it no-where. Iv'e never come across one before and several people who have been in the motor trade for over 50yrs don't know either.
    Maybe someone on here can enlighten me please. It's an Essex V6 from a Reliant Scimitar.
    Last edited by BuffaloBill; 02-02-20 at 03:37 PM. Reason: Forgot the photo! Der.....

  9. #129
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuffaloBill View Post
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    Thanks Nigel.
    One more question if I may.
    What does this do? It consists of 2 small pipes coming out of what looks like a valve set into the inlet manifold through to the water jacket.
    It has a connecting pipe from 1 outlet to the other and appears to be washer bottle piping. Iv'e got the Scimitar manual but I can't find any
    mention of it no-where. Iv'e never come across one before and several people who have been in the motor trade for over 50yrs don't know either.
    Maybe someone on here can enlighten me please. It's an Essex V6 from a Reliant Scimitar.
    It's a bleed valve used on a Scimitar because the radiator was lower than the filler on the thermostat housing. Also used in conjunction with an BL1300 overflow tank on the Scimitar.
    Galations 6:7

  10. #130
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Thanks Kapri. Sorry for the late reply but I've been getting the car ready to go to the spray shop.
    It went last Tuesday morning and will take around 6 weeks. Iv'e done away with that valve and
    put in a blanking plug to tidy things up. I picked up the radiator yesterday after having a new core
    fitted and generally a clean-up and tested. Open wallet surgery springs to mid Better now than later.
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  11. #131
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Hopefully someone can answer this for me! I'm changing the manual gearbox for a Borg Warner Auto and although everything seems to swap
    over OK, the spigot on the Torque Converter is 19mm where the manual one was 15mm. Iv'e looked just about everywhere for a new
    crankshaft bearing but can't find one anywhere. I have the Scimitar workshop manual but it shows next to nothing.
    So, the question is, does it need a bearing there as the flexy plate will hold the T/C in place at the engine end and the gearbox will hold it
    at that end and so it should stay aligned(in my view). Has anyone any knowledge or fitted the torque converter to an Essex V6?
    I don't know where else to ask.

  12. #132
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    It will need to have a spigot bearing fitted.

  13. #133
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    it won't be a bearing but a sleeve/spacer to hold the 'spigot' of the converter central in the crank. the converter spins at crank speed so doesn't need a bearing.
    neil.

  14. #134
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    2 Contrasting thoughts there then.
    I'll look at not fitting one when I assemble it in a few days time.
    Thanks for the thoughts guys.

  15. #135
    NSRA member rem's Avatar
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    It might technically be a 'bearing' as the flex plate can flex(!) so there could be a small amount of movement of the spigot in the bush.
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  16. #136
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Hi. Rem. There is no spigot bush just the bearing for the manual box which is 15mm dia. compared to the 19mm on the TC.
    I can't find any info on either a bush or bearing for the fitting of an auto box, hence the question.

  17. #137
    NSRA member BuffaloBill's Avatar
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    Right. Got a bit of a problem that hopefully someone can help with? I have a Mk3 Cortina steering column with all the switches etc but I can't seem to sort the wiring out from the Ign switch!
    Iv'e included a photo if anyone can help identify which wire goes where. Iv'e had my multimeter on it the whole afternoon with no success. I can't finish any more wiring until this bit is sorted!!
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Size:  104.4 KB I can't seem to find anything online either.

  18. #138
    NSRA member scottie's Avatar
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    my mk3 manual has a rubbish diagram, but usually with this age of ford, red is live from battery, black looks like it goes to the starter , black/yellow should be positive with the ignition on , grey should also be live with ignition on and would have went to the light switch

  19. #139
    NSRA member mygasser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuffaloBill View Post
    2 Contrasting thoughts there then.
    I'll look at not fitting one when I assemble it in a few days time.
    Thanks for the thoughts guys.
    it'll definately need something to keep the converter spigot located centrally in the crankshaft. an ally or bronze bush will be fine but it needs one. as i said it needn't be a bearing as the converter does not spin AT ALL in the crankshaft, it's just to locate it and hold it central. the converter bolts/nuts and studs aren't a tight enough fit in the flex plate holes to centralise it properly.
    neil.

  20. #140
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Yes to above ,if the converter is not held central in the crank it will crack the flexplate.
    and make sure the converter spigot is not tight in the bush as the converter moves in and out slightly hence the term “flex plate” ,but not loose either, a fit with no play and smear some height temp lube around there.

    engine to bell housing dowels are also as important on auto’s ,along with flat mounting faces.

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