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Thread: Zodiac axles

  1. #1
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Zodiac axles

    Broke a shortend mk3 Zodiac shaft on the Thames van,i think mk2 shafts will fit ,am i right ?,i have to re-spline /or cut n weld anyway so it dose not matter about length,but what about oil seal runner ,and hub ?

    I have a Mk1 to check but i know they are weak.

    Any big Ford gurus out there ?

  2. #2
    Fit an 8" and for get about it.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using NSRA mobile app
    Real steel

  3. #3
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Thanks john,8” is a better axle but the Zodiac should have handled the 1600 crossflow,in fact it has since 1985 !!,looks like there was a fault in the welding of it,it’s brittled up and had a slight run out.

    It should be easier to just get it fixed properly.

  4. #4
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    Mk 2 will fit if you are shortening then anyway as roughly 2" narrower . As they have a flat plate ened isn't it easier to bore a hole , slide the hast through and weld on the plate?
    Galations 6:7

  5. #5
    I'll did my spares out the shed as I no longer have a zephyr

  6. #6
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Mk 2 will fit if you are shortening then anyway as roughly 2" narrower . As they have a flat plate ened isn't it easier to bore a hole , slide the hast through and weld on the plate?
    thanks Kev,that is how I did these,but it had hardened under the weld ,and there was a slight run out ,those two factors perhaps combined to caused the failure.
    wish I could remember how much I took out of them ,but I think it was more than 2”(nice if the mk2 went straight in),one problem with shortening then at the flange is the shaft has to have a sleeve fitted for the inner oil seal run on,if I have seal left now !!,,I haven’t looked yet.
    I never felt it break at all, just driving slow .

    edit,apparently I narrowed it 4” each side.
    Last edited by Captain Scarlet; 03-06-20 at 09:41 AM.

  7. #7
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by morris View Post
    I'll did my spares out the shed as I no longer have a zephyr
    thanks Mike ,was that you that got rid of a diff on here a while back ?

  8. #8
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    Actually best to go for a Mk 3 shaft as they are stronger than the Mk 2s . I twisted my Mk 2 halfshafts with just a stock Rover
    Galations 6:7

  9. #9
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Actually best to go for a Mk 3 shaft as they are stronger than the Mk 2s . I twisted my Mk 2 halfshafts with just a stock Rover
    Thanks Kev

  10. #10
    You could try these for shortening a MK111 halfshaft

    http://www.cpsdrivelink.co.uk/

  11. #11
    NSRA member Morris460's Avatar
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    Hope I'm not teaching my granny-eggs-etc, use a 312 welding rod, it will control the carbon in the weld. Usually sold as "dissimilar steels" rods.
    Layabout.

  12. #12
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    All info is useful guys thank you

    I was thinking of possibly getting them re-splined this time

  13. #13
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    Actually best to go for a Mk 3 shaft as they are stronger than the Mk 2s . I twisted my Mk 2 halfshafts with just a stock Rover
    Thanks Kev,i guess MK2's would be a bit tougher when re splined shorter,it is only a 1600 crosflow.

  14. #14
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    It was the splined area that twisted on mine. My only experience with resplined shafts was on a mates SD1 Salibury back axle which took the spilned ends off when going from reverse to forward at idle ?? I presume they have to be reheat teated or something ?
    Galations 6:7

  15. #15
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapri View Post
    It was the splined area that twisted on mine. My only experience with resplined shafts was on a mates SD1 Salibury back axle which took the spilned ends off when going from reverse to forward at idle ?? I presume they have to be reheat teated or something ?
    I think you might be right with the heat treatment Kev

  16. #16
    NSRA member Morris460's Avatar
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    usually induction hardened which goes 3mm deep-ish. So the base of the splines will be made of cheese.
    Layabout.

  17. #17
    NSRA member Captain Scarlet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morris460 View Post
    usually induction hardened which goes 3mm deep-ish. So the base of the splines will be made of cheese.

    ooh,so maybe i should have it done the same as before, welded,but somehow keep the flange square while welded.

    I know,i could leave more meat on the end of the flange, as i had it machined away at the end before,that would allow more depth of interference fit .

  18. #18
    NSRA member kapri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morris460 View Post
    usually induction hardened which goes 3mm deep-ish. So the base of the splines will be made of cheese.

    My mates were ....
    Galations 6:7

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